Tucked away deep in the heart of Hispanic northern New Mexico is one of the state’s more secluded high country hideaways.
Canjilon Lakes boasts several small ponds stocked with rainbow and cutthroat trout and is surrounded by lush mountain scenery and plenty of camp sites.
The lakes have long held a reputation for being a locals-only recreation area due to its remote location and cultural heritage.
Reports of vehicle break-ins, campground confrontations and hostile looks are bandied about by some in the angling community.
A vintage camper in one of the many U.S. Forest Service campsites at Canjilon Lakes. |
We ventured north to find out for ourselves on the Thursday before the start of the long Fourth of July holiday weekend.
The pleasant drive north on U.S. 84 took us through O’Keefe country past the striking red buttes overlooking Abiquiu Lake and the cathedral-like overhang at Echo Amphitheatre.
Echo Amphitheatre. Print available at www.karlmoffatt.pixels.com. |
Sign on private land outside Tierra Amarilla. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons. |
Passing through the hamlet of Canjilon one can sense how this was once a thriving settlement where farming, ranching and living off the land was a way of life.
The U.S. Forest Service maintains a ranger station here where the controversial history of the land grants influences how the surrounding public lands are managed.
Photo courtesy of Russell Contreras. |
See: https://www.fs.fed.us/rm/pubs/rmrs_p007/rmrs_p007_035_038.pdf and
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/9a02/3c8a1565b779a4f38969be9f9cccc4c51f5c.pdf?_ga=2.110956293.1624900775.1597697415-521613099.1597697415.
On the road to the lakes we pass piles of downed trees stacked by the roadside and littering the surrounding ground. These are some of the hundreds of trees that fell victim to insect infestation and drought that caused many to suddenly come down, forcing the Forest Service to close the area to the public for several years.
With many of the trees now cleared the area is open again and folks are able to find some relief from the daily grind of the Coronavirus Pandemic.
During our visit we found plenty of people at the upper two lakes and campground but didn’t see anyone throwing us “heƱos” (dirty looks). And everyone we met was friendly and helpful, too.
The upper lake at Canjilon Lakes. |
While fishing we watched as a steady flow of traffic rolled by headed for the upper lakes and campground. But we remained the sole anglers on the lower pond and enjoyed a very relaxing visit.
The only drama we encountered was on our return when we elected to take a forest service road over to El Rito rather than go back through Canjilon. We could have sworn the sign at the intersection said 15 miles, turns out it was more than twice that over a rough dirt road. We saw a lot of back country, very few other people and gained a much greater appreciation for the area’s vast remoteness.
A rare paved road leads to Canjilon Lakes. |
As for it’s bad reputation?
Maybe that really is nothing more then a few shifty anglers trying to keep this jewel of a fishing spot under wraps.