Floating the Lower San Juan River - Big Browns, No Crowds, Great Fishing !

Tim McCarthy shows off a nice brown trout from the lower San Juan river.

It’s eight and half miles of glorious water loaded with big, bad, brown trout that most anglers visiting the San Juan River pass up on a regular basis.

Many have seen this lower stretch of river from the road as they motored up to their favorite fishing hole on this famous river’s, quality waters.

And with so many fish to be had upstream, an estimated 70,000 in four miles of public access, many don’t even think about fishing down below.

After all, you’d need a boat and some high water to easily float downstream to those fabled browns.

But that’s just what we did when we set out to explore this lower river on a midsummer expedition to the lower waters of the San Juan River.

The flows on the river this summer were kicked up to around 950 cubic-feet-per-second for a few weeks to supplement lower flows from the Animas River so a minimum flow could be maintained downstream for endangered fish.

Taking advantage of the higher water was drift boat owner, Tim McCarthy, of Albuquerque who is also the author’s brother-in-law. Our guest for the day was Soaring Eagle Lodge owner, Larry Johnson, who frequently guides on the lower river and was happy to be taken fishing for a change.  

Johnson noted that during higher flows the lower river is easier to navigate and the fish less spooky and more spread out. 

Johnson was cautiously optimistic about our chances for success but sure seemed to be grinning a lot. 

Larry Johnson of Soaring Eagle Lodge.

We put the drift boat in at the state game and fish department ‘s access point just below the town of Navajo Dam, off San Juan County Road 4277, next to the Rainbow Lodge.

We then took the truck and trailer downstream to the game and fish’s “take out” area just above the Hammond diversion dam.

The take out can be found by taking a right onto a dirt road at the top of a hill just off State Road 511 about a half mile shy of U.S. 64. The road is unmarked save for a skinny green post, bearing a thin, red placard with the numbers 5367, in white, running down it.

One might want to familiarize themselves with the area first on Google Earth, then inquire at a fly shop for local directions and finally do some scouting around before hauling a trailer down there.

The unimproved, dirt road may be impassable when wet and is steep and rutted at some points.

After dropping off the truck and trailer we climbed into our second vehicle and headed back upstream to begin our day-long trip.

We’d lucked into incredible weather as the day began cool and overcast after a week-long, record breaking, heat wave had gripped the area.

The monsoon season was now just beginning, it had rained the night before and it was forecast to do the same again later today.

Johnson suggested we rig up one of his green, woolly boogers sporting rubber legs, a cone head and a trailing hook. He said just chuck it over towards the banks and strip it back with a series of short, quick retrieves. 

The deadliest booger.

This proved to be the fly and the technique for the day as we didn’t see a rising fish or a good hatch the entire float. 

Swapping off on the oars, we all took turns chucking the green monsters at the ledges, edges and green water, producing attacks from a steady supply of eager brown trout. 

The key to hooking them was to keep the lure moving, the rod tip low to the water and setting the hook with a quick strip of the line.

It was exciting to see from the vantage point of the boat, the lure threading its way through then water and then the flash of a fish as it came out of hiding to attack it.

We caught a steady supply of browns in a variety of sizes, verifying what game and fish department surveys by electro shocking had already proven, a lot of healthy, brown trout live in these lower waters.

“There’s no doubt about it, there’s some good sized fish down there,” says Marc Wethington, the state Department of Game and Fish’s fisheries biologist stationed on the river. “And they don’t get the pressure you see upstream.”

And that resulted in some great acrobatic displays as many a surprised brown jumped and fought like one might normally expect from a Rainbow trout.

The trip downstream took about six hours with some brief rain showers and overcast conditions during the morning and then sunny and much warmer during the afternoon.

We were well equipped with raincoats, wide-brimmed hats, sunscreen, insect repellent and plenty of cold water and snacks, thus, we didn’t suffer much. 

Larry Johnson mans the oars while Tim McCarthy casts during a recent outing on the lower San Juan River.

We discovered the river flows through some spectacular country as we passed through canyons hemmed in by towering sandstone cliffs, shot through with layers of faded red and tan rock.

Overhead crows, buzzards, eagles and hawks circled and cried.

At other times we found ourselves hemmed in by thick rows of pale, green and very thorny, Russian Olive trees. Here the bugs seemed thick and the air alive with their buzzing.

As the rookie driver on board, I was constantly warned to stay away from the bank and its thorny trees.

At one point I was also scolded for letting the boat do a lazy, midstream, doughnut as I peered up at the beautiful banks of fluffy, flat bottomed clouds overhead.

Just goofing around, like a kid in an inner tube.

We then came across the idyllic, riverfront home of Abe Chavez, founder of the legendary Abes Motel and Fly Shop at Navajo Dam.

And around another corner we discovered a pretty, little, red and white trimmed, ranch house with a wide expanse of green lawn and a “for sale” sign posted out front.

That got us all buzzing.

The river continued past a pasture stocked with cattle and horses and a grove of shady cottonwoods under which sat a couple of old kitchen chairs and a forked stick stuck in the sand.

Someone’s own, backyard, fishing hole.

What a life, we all agreed.

There were spots that begged further investigation but down here you don’t drop anchor or get out of the boat for fear of trespassing on someone’s land, and maybe, getting shot at, Johnson warned us.

It’s a good policy designed to ensure good relations with the neighbors, he says.

We continue to fish and float, picking up a bruiser hidden behind a log lashed to pile of old automobile grills buried in the bank for erosion control. A dog rushes to the bank growling and barking excitedly as we reel in yet another monster brown. 

Karl Moffatt shows off a nice brown picked up in the lower stretch of the San Juan River. 

And then we’re there, in the long slow water leading up to the diversion dam, alerted to its location by the big rock in the middle of the river and an island behind it that splits the current in two.

Johnson warns that we don’t want to miss the take out hidden amongst the thick trees or we might get swept downstream where we’ll have hell to pay dragging the boat back upstream, by hand, in the extremely cold, water.

We find it and bury the nose in the sandy bank, jumping out and slapping high fives all around, it had been an excellent day on the water, with great company and even better fishing. 

We saw just one other boat with a guide and a single angler on board that whole day.

Back at Cottonwood Campground as we sit under the picnic shelter, guzzling cold beers and grilling fat t-bones, our elderly neighbor stops by to inquire about our luck that day.

I showed him the pictures and he exclaims “Where’d you get those.”

All I can do is smile and say “downstream.”



 

Fly Fishing the Pecos National Historical Park. Check It Out!

It’s a little piece of the Pecos River where one can find a clean, quiet, pleasant place to dabble a fly for trout this summer.

The Pecos National Historical Park’s pilot, fly-fishing program is underway for its third year, playing host to anglers seeking a quality experience while chasing trout in the river located just a short drive from Santa Fe.

This picturesque, three-mile stretch of water that runs through the national park defies the upper Pecos River’s widely held reputation among many anglers as one of the most overrun, trashed out and used up fisheries in the state.

But for a price, an angler can get away from the rowdy crowds, noisy campgrounds and extensive litter that can be found on many public stretches of the Pecos River located in the Santa Fe National Forest above the village of Pecos.

The program was started in the fall of 2008 to address public demand for access to nearly three miles of river running through about 3,300 acres of the park’s land that is still off limits, said Christine Beekman, spokesperson for the 6,610-acre park.

Since then the program has gained a following amongst a core group of regulars, she said. But while many anglers might make reservations to fish the river, quite a few also fail to show up, making it possible for walk-ins to take advantage of open slots.

The program utilizes a reservation system and divides the river into three beats, two of which are dedicated to reservations and a third which is open to walk-ins on a first-come, first-served basis. No shows’ slots are made available to walk-ins after 9:30 a.m.

Beats are randomly rotated each day to provide variety to users and each beat is limited to a total of three anglers per day. The cost is $25 for the day with a $3 park entrance fee. The $25 covers the cost of running the program and grants the user a special use permit for access to the closed portion of the park.

Fishing on the river is catch and release only with single barbless hooks and anglers must present a valid New Mexico fishing license upon check in. No pets or commercial guides are allowed and the river is off-limits if the stream flow meets or exceeds 200 cubic feet per second. 

The summer season runs through Aug. 2nd and the fall seasons begins Sept. 2nd and runs through Oct. 25th. For more particulars about making reservations and other information go online to www.nps.gov/peco and click on the 2010 fishing program tab. Or call the park at (505) 757-7200.

As part of the fishing program, anglers are asked to fill out a questionnaire about their experience when checking out. Then information will be used as part of the park’s evaluation of the program and plans for future use, Beekman said.

The park’s management is expected to begin taking public comment this coming winter to determine how to best use the rest of the park, including the river, she said.

The park’s management plan will be guided by the public’s right to access and the government’s need to protect the resources, Beekman said.

A recent visit to the river revealed solitude and spectacular scenery as expected but challenging fishing due to the heat.

The lengthy hike to the beginning of beat two or further on to the bottom of beat three requires some stamina while wearing waders under a blazing, hot, summer sun. It also cuts into the time available for fishing, a serious consideration during the summer months due to the limited amount of time available to fish under current rules. Anglers are restricted to fishing from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. during the summer program.

A visit to the river revealed that it could have easily been fished in sneakers and shorts and that would have been a lot more comfortable while hiking in and during wading.

Suggestions on how to improve the program to better suit anglers will be entertained during upcoming public meetings and comments will also be collected online, Beekman said.

It’s possible that the river and surrounding park land could be open to the public by next spring, she said. 

And while the fishing at the Pecos National Historical Park might be a great reason to visit the park, its museum, Indian ruins, the remains of an early, Spanish church, a civil war battlefield and its Forked Lighting Ranch house are all equally worthy reasons for a visit to the park, Beekman stressed.

The park’s museum features one of the more comprehensive and detailed history of the region, while the Indian ruins feature a cool, underground kiva to hide out in on a hot summer day. 

If You Go: 

Take I-25 out of Santa Fe towards Las Vegas and get off at the Pecos/Glorieta exit at State Road 50. Drive into town and take a right at the stop sign and intersection of State Road 63. Follow for a couple of miles to the visitor center entrance. Some fishing supplies, licenses and beer available at Adelo's Store. Good burgers at the village drive-in located a couple of blocks up the road from Adelo's on the other side of town, headed towards the national forest.

A Great New Mexico Fourth of July Tradition Gets Even Better

One of New Mexico’s best Fourth of July celebrations, attending the hometown rodeo at Cimarron followed by the fireworks show at nearby Eagle Nest has gotten a whole lot better with the addition of a new public campground on the lake.

Those making a trip north to the high country lake at 8,300 feet will find 19 new camp sites with shelters, campfire rings and picnic tables in the campground at Eagle Nest Lake State Park, located off U.S. 64 on the west side of the lake.

The $10 a night, dry, camp sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis and are expected to go fast over the holiday weekend, so plan accordingly, said Mark Sullivan, Park Ranger. Six sites available by reservation have already been snapped up.

Those who get a site will enjoy a front row treat to the village’s annual fireworks display as it erupts right over their heads. And as long lines of traffic leave the area following the display, campers can kick back and enjoy knowing they’re already home for the night.

 Those unlucky enough to not snag a spot at the state park campground can try their luck at any number of nearby private campground operators or venture across the lake into Cimarron Canyon where another 88 sites in three campgrounds exist.

And while the fireworks is a good show, the rodeo just down the road at Cimarron is a real treat for those interested in attending an authentic, old school, country rodeo including bull and bronco riding, wild cow milking and the always entertaining wild horse race.

The rodeo, one of the longest running in the country having started way back in 1923, not only provides the area’s working cowboys an opportunity to test their skills and win some money but also provides local students with scholarships from the proceeds, said Chuck Enlow, Rodeo Director of the Maverick Club which hosts the event.

The rodeo is open to anyone and draws riders from around the region as well as plenty of local riders who work the area’s many cattle ranches. Enlow’s day job is managing a herd of about 300 horses for the Philmont Scout Ranch. 

The rodeo follows a traditional parade starting at 9.a.m. along U.S. 64 through Cimarron and runs through much of the day. Visitors will find covered stands to sit under while the local Kiwanis Club serves up buffalo burgers, hot dogs, chips and soft drinks for a modest price. 

Well-behaved, leashed dogs are allowed on the rodeo grounds. A good hat, plenty of sunscreen and perhaps an umbrella is recommended for visitors. A camp chair or blanket could also come in handy if the grandstand is crowded and the only seats left are on the grass.

Eagle Nest’s Fourth of July parade begins later in the afternoon around 2.p.m. and the town is also hosting an arts and crafts fair over the holiday weekend, said Robert Curry of the Eagle nest Chamber of Commerce and manager of the local Econo Lodge.

Those attending the fireworks display will have to pay a $5 entrance fee at the state park where well behaved, leashed and supervised dogs are welcome. Responsible alcohol consumption is permitted within the park but no glass bottles are allowed. Designated drivers are encouraged and a heavy police presence is expected, said Ranger Sullivan. 

 Those visiting the state park at the lake will also find a new, “Green”, visitor center to explore. The facility employs straw bale construction, natural lighting, solar panels and a wind turbine to reduce its energy consumption to zero, according to a state parks news release about the building.

The Fourth of July celebration at Eagle Nest and Cimarron provides an important economic boost to the local, rural economy and visitors are greatly appreciated and truly welcome, many local merchants say.

If You Go:

From Santa Fe take U.S. 84/285 North to Espanola, continue straight through town on Riverside Drive and proceed on State Road 86 north to Taos. Take US 64 East to Eagle Nest and continue another 24 miles on U.S. 64 to Cimarron. 

 

Forest Service Cabin Rentals Provide Unique Outdoor Opportunities

The Platoro river above the summer vacation community of Platoro in the Rio Grande National Forest outside of Antonito, Colorado.

Looking for something new to do on your next outdoor adventure? Why not consider renting a Forest Service cabin for a touch of nostalgia, history and better access to the backcountry’s beauty.

For example, just across the state line in southern Colorado one can rent a cabin in the old mining town of Platoro, located on the Conejos River just below the big reservoir.

The facility is an old forest service work camp with two recently remodeled cabins sitting next to each other on a large piece of property on the edge of this small, summer vacation community.

First made available this year over the Memorial Day weekend , a visit to one of the cabins revealed propane heat, plenty of hot water, a modern bathroom and a kitchen with an electric stove, refrigerator, a table, chairs, and cooking utensils.

The bedroom was equipped with two bunk beds featuring a futon mattress on the bottom and a traditional spring mattress on the top. The mattress proved to be the more comfortable of the two.

What the cabin lacked in ambiance - the interior was painted a bright, Government Issue, mustard color and the floors were covered in cold linoleum tiles - it made up for in location, historical intrigue and scenery.

Guests are within walking distance of the excellent fishing on the Conejos River and at several nearby high mountain lakes including Platoro Reservoir and Mix Lake. The area offers abundant hiking opportunities, spectacular scenery and plenty of wildlife to view.

A fox made its way through the property on a regular basis and the swallows nesting in a neighboring barn were a joy to watch with coffee in the morning as they swooped and dove about in mass flight.

On the property are several interesting outbuildings which upon exploring might prompt one to wonder about their previous use.

One of the other aspects of renting a Forest Service cabin is the special feeling that comes from occupying a public space for a weekend. Visitors are entrusted with its care and expected to clean up after themselves. One might experience a feeling of communal responsibility and special pride while sitting on the porch, waving at the passing neighbors.

The Platoro cabins are just one of many cabins available for rent within a day’s drive of Santa Fe, including the highly popular, incredibly rustic, Elwood cabin located at 11,000 feet near the old, gold mining town of Summitville.

This cabin is high in the mountains above Platoro and provides the kind of solitude and scenery one can only dream about at lower elevations. 

Mix Lake above the old mining town of Platoro, Colorado offers good fishing and spectacular scenery. 

Reservations for Elwood go quickly due to its spectacular setting, says Mike Blakeman, Public Affairs Officer for the Rio Grande National Forest.

But many other Forest Service cabins remain available even through the height of the summer.

Visitors can find remote line camps in the forest between Saguache and Gunnison or rent a cabin near the summer resort town of South Fork or even an old, fire lookout tower near the town of Mancos.

The lookout tower is operated by the Jersey Jim Foundation and is a 55-foot tall tower equipped with propane stove, refrigerator, heat, kitchen utensils and a double bed. The cost is $40 a night and visitors will find fishing and swimming at nearby Jackson Lake State Park or can tour the ancient Indian ruins at Mesa Verde National Park.

Those interested in renting the tower need to telephone the organization directly starting on the first working day in March as they only book a year at a time, says Clara McNeil, reservation clerk for the group. The telephone number is 970-533-7060.

The lookout tower is booked for the 2010 season which typically runs from late May through mid October. However, those interested can call and ask to be placed on the waiting list in case of a cancellation for this season, she said.

More information about these and other rental opportunities can be found on the Forest service’s website at www.fs.fed.us while rental information, availability dates, fees, directions, etc. are managed through the government’s reservation contractor www.recreation.gov.

Blakeman said one of the primary benefits of renting a Forest Service cabin is that 95 percent of the rental fees go back to the local ranger district’s coffers for improvements to the facilities. The reservation company only collects a $9 fee above and beyond the rental fee, he said.

The Forest Service's Platoro cabins are located near the historic railroading town of Antonito, Colorado where visitors can board an old steam for a scenic journey into the woods.

Nambe Lake and Falls Beats the Heat - Great Fishing, Hiking, Scenery.

When the summer heat comes down on Santa Fe, there’s a great little spot this side of the Pecos where one can fish, picnic and play in the cool waters running under the shade of many a cottonwood tree.

Nambe Lake and Falls is just up the road from Santa Fe, a short 16-mile drive that takes one a world away from the heat, noise and congestion of the city. 

The 56-acre lake is well stocked with trout and provides great fishing in the shadow of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains from which its lifeblood, the Rio Nambe, flows.

Located on scenic Nambe Pueblo’s lands, the lake and falls offers visitors a great place to wile away a day, wading in the cool waters of the river, basking in the soothing mist of the water fall or hiking streamside under the shade of its many cottonwood trees.

The falls area offers a plaza surrounded by adobe and viga picnic shelters, many shade trees and the river running through it.

The area is popular for family gatherings, reunions, graduation parties and other events.

In the same area but further downstream the falls area offers group and individual camp sites including some with water and electric for recreational vehicles, all under the shade of the many cottonwood trees.

Visitors here will find streamside trails that lead to the base of a waterfall fed by a continuous summertime flow from the dam above. A steeper hike along but above the stream will take one up almost parallel to the dam where yet another waterfall can be seen.

Behind the dam, anglers will find the lake chock full of trout and many coves and other good spots to fish from. From up here one can view the Jemez mountains off across the valley and watch as lazy, summer clouds float by. 

Nambe Chief Ranger Joe Vigil, 63, who was born and raised on Nambe Pueblo, says the lake’s primary attraction to many area anglers is its summer-long trout season.

Many competing tribal lakes at lower elevations stop stocking trout during the summer and turn to catfish because the trout won’t survive the heat.

But not at Nambe Lake and Falls. The trout here are stocked all season long, usually once a month with upwards of four to five thousand fish in sizes ranging from 10 to 15 inches, Vigil says. 

Miguel Espiricueta, 21, of Arroyo Seco and his son, Miguel Jr., 2.5, show off the hefty stringer of trout they caught using powerbait during a June 2010 outing to the well stocked, tribal lake.

Vigil, a retired sheriff’s investigator, says that growing up on the pueblo he used to hike and fish in the same mountains visitors can enjoy now and it remains relatively unchanged. 

Back in the 1950s, when Vigil was growing up, the pueblo was much smaller in population and most families farmed and raised livestock.

The living was much simpler then for him and his four brothers and one sister.

Vigil attended grade school on the pueblo along with a handful of other kids and they spent most of their spare time playing marbles or baseball and riding horses. They also fished and played in the nearby woods where visitors can do the same today.

Vigil joined the Navy after graduating high school in 1965; enlisting was something many young men from the Pojoaque valley were doing then. There was war on in Vietnam and the draft loomed, so Vigil signed up and became a boiler tender on the destroyers, the Cromwell and the Norris. His Navy career was uneventful having spent most of his time stationed on the East Coast.

After his stint in the military he returned to New Mexico where he pursued a career in law enforcement, starting out in the village of Questa and then moving on to the Taos and Santa Fe Sheriff’s Departments in those counties before finally retiring from the Rio Arriba County Sheriff’s Department just a few years ago.

Vigil says he liked police work because every day was different and presented a new challenge.

Vigil says he took over managing the pueblo’s recreational area because he needed something to keep him busy in his retirement. He’s since found he now enjoys the more laid back nature of his work when compared with his previous career.

Vigil is married to Teresa and has been for over thirty years. The couple have two sons, Joey, a Tesuque Tribal Police officer and John, a state government employee in Santa Fe. Their daughter, Crystal, is a home healthcare worker who lives on the pueblo as does her brother, Joey.

Vigil says life on the pueblo has changed some over the years but visitors will still find the pueblo a sleepy little village, surrounded by farms and the mountains, all brimming with pastoral beauty. 

The valley through which the Rio Nambe flows and where Nambe Pueblo exists, as seen from the road leading to the lake.


“It’s quiet and cool up here and we make sure everybody’s happy and enjoying themselves,” Vigil says.

Rangers are on duty everyday during the summer season when the lake is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

A carload of up to five people can visit the falls for $10 for hiking, wading and picnicking. Photographers need to purchase an additional $5 license for the right to take pictures.

Anglers pay $15 for a day of fishing with a bag limit of up to five trout and no state fishing license is required. Seniors over 60 pay $10 while kids under the age of 12 pay $8 with a five fish bag limit. Kids six and under get in for free and can catch and keep two fish.

Boats with electric trolling motors are allowed as are float tubes and rafts. Swimming in the lake is not allowed.

Visitors can bring well-behaved leashed dogs to the lake and falls and alcoholic beverages and their responsible use are not prohibited

Camping can be had for $25 a day or $35 with electric and water.

Reservations of the falls area day use areas is negotiable. Call Vigil at 455- 2304 for more information.

If You Go:

Take US 84/285 north out of Santa Fe to State Road 503 just past Pojoaque. Take St. Rd. 503 to Nambe Pueblo Road 101 and follow to the Nambe Lake and Falls guard shack. Returning from the lake or falls one can visit the pueblo’s plaza by taking Nambe Pueblo 102 which winds its way back to St. Rd. 503 for the return trip to Santa Fe.