Escape Winter's Grip with a Pancho Villa State Park Roadtrip

Statute of Pancho Villa in the Mexican border town of Palomas.

When winter has its icy grip on northern New Mexico it’s time to make a beeline for the border.

A visit to Pancho Villa State Park in the warm, sunny border town of Columbus makes for a great winter get away.

The park features plenty of roomy campsites and clean restrooms and a remarkable museum dedicated to the real Mexican invasion of the United States back in 1916.

Pancho Villa State Park Museum.

During the early morning hours of that historic day about 500 of revolutionary leader Pancho Villa’s troops snuck across the U.S. border and attacked the sleepy town and Army garrison stationed at Columbus New Mexico.

Historical accounts speculate as to the attack’s purpose ranging from Villa’s need for military and other supplies or in revenge for American meddling in Mexico’s revolution.

The attack was repulsed though leaving many of the invaders and a few villagers and some soldiers dead. The U.S. Army then launched its own invasion into Mexico in search of Villa but the Army expedition returned home empty-handed after a year.

The story is better told in viewing the documentary film and reading the interpretive displays within the park’s museum. Visitors will find a full size replica of an early model biplane hanging in the spacious museum, a restored military truck and display cases featuring firearms, uniforms and other items from the era.

Display in the Pancho Villa State Park museum.

Outside the museum visitors will find one of the Army’s armored trucks on display and more interpretive signs along trails around the park which was once known as Camp Furlong.

The park is popular with travelers known locally as “snowbirds” and is reported to be busiest during the winter months. Unfortunately several telephone calls to park management seeking further information about the park and its operations were not returned. 

During a recent visit plenty of spaces with hookups were still available even on a Friday afternoon. A $10 tent site came with a covered shelter, picnic table and fire ring. It should be noted that the park’s proximity to the nearby highway and the ease with which sound travels across the desert could prove bothersome to some tent campers.  

Tent site at Pancho Villa State Park.

Columbus, a town of about 1,600, boasts a restored railroad station, U.S. Customs House and several other historic buildings from its vibrant past. Visitors and residents can eat at several different and very good restaurants, shop at the grocery and liquor store and get gas at the town’s convenience store.

Tourism, agriculture, retail trade and government employment account for much of the economy of the region. The city of Deming and Interstate-10 is about 30 miles north of Columbus and the Mexican border town of Palomas is about three miles south on N.M.11. 

Visitors to the small, friendly Mexican town of Palomas will find an imposing statute of Villa astride a stallion leading a charge with pistol in hand in front of the town’s municipal building.

Main Street in Palomas, Mexico

Visitors also may encounter whistle blowing adults in reflective vests hustling along busloads of children returning from school in Columbus. The kids were born in the United States but live in Mexico and attend school in Columbus as American citizens.

Many Americans frequent Palomas to get cheaper prescription drugs and dental work or shop at The Pink Store. The landmark corner store features a dizzying array of arts and crafts, tax free liquor and great food and drinks. Visitors may even be handed a complimentary margarita upon entering.

American tourists, Bill Diven and Karl Moffatt of New Mexico, enjoy a margarita inside the renowned "Pink Store" at Palomas, Mexico.

After roaming the streets and shops of Palomas, Americans returning to the U.S. may need little more than a

valid New Mexico driver’s license to get back into the country. However, custom checkpoint officers say publicly that they would rather see a passport or at the very least a birth certificate along with a driver’s license.

Columbus has a strong U.S. Border Patrol presence due to its proximity to Mexico. It is also home to part of the Trump administration’s controversial border wall.

About 47 miles of 30-foot tall, thick steel fence is being installed between the New Mexico border towns of Santa Teresa and Columbus, says Border Patrol Agent and Spokesperson, Ramiro Cordero.

The border wall under construction in February, 2020 between Santa Teresa and Columbus N.M. 

Visitors to the area can easily find the border wall about 25 miles east of Columbus off N.M. 9 at Dona Ana County Road A-1. The wall can be found a mile down the dirt road on public land administered by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management.

Cordero acknowledged that the area is open to the public but recommended anyone visiting to see the wall might want to let the local Border Patrol Office know just to avoid any potential problems.

Despite the daunting sea of vast desert here the border is routinely crossed illegally because of its close proximity to highways running parallel on either side, Cordero says.

In the past all that stood in the way was a four strand barbed wire fence. In 2008 squat “Normandy” style vehicle barriers were installed. Now it’s 30-feet tall “Bollard” fencing, spaced steel tubes filled with rebar and concrete and topped with a flat steel section.

The construction work also will include installation of an all-weather road along the wall, buried fiber optic cables, better sensors and other surveillance equipment to help deter illegal border crossings, Cordero says.

During a recent visit to the area the border wall could be seen towering in the distance as it rose from the desert. Standing right next to it revealed just how daunting a structure it is.

Those visiting the area to enjoy all the borderlands have to offer area will find several other state parks nearby including City of Rocks and Rockhound State. Visit New Mexico State Parks’ website for more information.

View of Cookes Peak from Luna County Road 019 off N.M. 26 between Hatch and Deming N.M.

Winter Trout Fishing on the Rio Chama Below El Vado Dam

Toner Mitchell shows off a fine example of the resident brown trout that can be found during the winter in the Rio Chama below  El Vado Dam.

(Originally published 2012, updated and republished 12/26/2019)

In the dead of winter when most anglers are yearning for a fight with a feisty trout there are only a few places one can try in northern New Mexico.

But for those seeking the solitude of a lonely stretch of river, incredible scenery and the possibility of catching a fat fish, then the Rio Chama below El Vado Dam is where it’s at.

Located just a couple hours north of Santa Fe off one of the most scenic highways in the state lies a secluded stretch of the Rio Chama where trout fishing can be had in the midst of winter.

During a mid-week, early February trip we found the river free of any other anglers and caught a couple of fine examples of the big trout that lie in wait in the murky waters below the dam.

Anglers will find up to six miles of good fishing on the river below El Vado dam as it carves its way through a deep, wild canyon before being confined again by the dam and lake at Abiquiu.

Designated a federally protected Wild and Scenic River for 25 miles below the dam at El Vado, the river is popular among rafters, canoeists, kayakers during the spring, summer and fall months.

The river is then frequently running high to supply downstream irrigation demands and provide an adequate flow for river runners.

But in the winter when the gates are shut down and the water drops, anglers in the know make the trip to this stretch of water to enjoy its fabled fishing.

“This is a place where anglers really need to dial back their expectations, though,” says Toner Mitchell, veteran fishing guide, former manager of the Reel Life fly shop and a Santa Fe native. “It’s the kind of river where if you catch a trout, then you’ve had a good day.”

Mitchell, now the state's public lands coordinator for Trout Unlimited, recommends anglers interested in fishing the Rio Chama below El Vado dam familiarize themselves with some basic winter angling techniques.

Those fishing with a spin-casting rig will find that baits like worms and salmon eggs drifted under a bubble may work much better than using a spinning lure due to the sluggishness of trout during the cold winter months.

The same applies to fly fishermen and women.

Egg and worm patterns presented at the proper depth and methodically dead drifted through a target area may work much better than stripping a streamer through a pool, Mitchell says.

But regardless of the fishing gear used, the real key to success on the Rio Chama in winter may have more to do with the weather than anything else.

Being prepared to hit the river when the weather turns mild during breaks between storms and cold fronts is critical to catching fish when they’re feeding, Mitchell says.

The trout may then be found loitering at the tail end of a pool where a good, dead drift is essential for attracting one’s attention or they may be feeding up in the shallow riffle just above the pool.

That’s why it’s crucial to methodically fish an entire segment of water before moving on, Mitchell says.

It’s also very important to use a proper weight to get the fly or bait down into the zone where the fish are holding, Mitchell says.

Too much weight and your offering may drift right under the trout while too little may put it out of their reach.

“Sometimes you have to literally hit them on the head with it before they’ll bite,” Mitchell says.

And changing weight while also adjusting the length of a strike indicator, bubble or bobber can often be more significant than what fly, bait, or lure is being used, Mitchell noted.

Anglers should also be prepared to deal with the Rio Chama’s notoriously slick streambed where studded, felt-soled wading boots are highly recommended.

Anglers venturing into the canyon should also be prepared for a day outdoors by dressing in layers, carrying plenty of water and having an emergency space blanket, fire starter and a couple of high energy bars on hand - just in case.

It should be noted that the state record brown trout came out of the Rio Chama and can still be seen mounted on the wall of the El Vado Ranch store, says owner Dave Cooper.

Measuring in at 35.5-inches in length and weighing just over 20 pounds, the monster brown trout was caught with a live minnow by G.T. Colgrove of Decatur, TX, on July 8, 1946, Cooper says.

Cooper, 65, grew up by the river on the 100-acre ranch his parents owned and says big trout are still routinely pulled out of its waters with the average brown trout measures about 17 inches and some being caught as big as 28 inches.

“It’s still one of the best fisheries in the state,” Cooper says with pride.

El Vado Ranch offers anglers parking on the river at $5 a day and sells some tackle and groceries in its store.

Fully furnished log cabins are also available for those who might want to stay the night after a hard day of fishing.

Cooper said anglers who need something might have to go looking for him as he is frequently not in the office and out on the property instead during the winter months.

And while the Rio Chama continues to produce excellent fishing year after year a study of the river’s health is underway, says Steve Harris of the non-profit Rio Grande Restoration Project and owner of the rafting company Far Flung Adventures.

And negotiations with the governmental agencies that own and control the river’s water is underway too which will hopefully lead to improvements on a number of different fronts.

“They recognize things can be improved,” Harris says.

For instance, the brown trouts’ reproduction rates could improve greatly by simply altering the water delivery schedule to keep trout spawning beds sufficiently wet during critical fall months, Harris noted.

Those and other suggestions are part of ongoing discussions with a number of agencies including the Bureau of Reclamation which operates the dam and appears receptive to revising its operations to improve conditions on the river, Harris says.

For more information about the project see the Rio Grande Restoration Project’s latest newsletters Chama Flow Report # 1 and Chama Flow Report # 2. and visit their website for updates at www.riogranderestoration.org.

IF YOU GO: From Santa Fe take US 84/285 north to Espanola. Continue on US 84 north to the blinking yellow light at the crossroad of NM 531 near the village of Tierra Amarilla. Turn left onto NM 531 and follow past Escalante High School to the intersection of NM 112 and turn left again. Follow to the turn off for El Vado Ranch just before reaching the dam.

Even the stocked rainbow trout can grow big on the Rio Chama below El Vado Dam.

Originally published 2/13/2012- Updated 12/2013 and 12/26/2019. Republished 12/26 2019.

Visit Bosque del Apache for great fall bird watching and Festival of the Cranes

Photo courtesy of U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. 

Thousands of migrating birds are back at the Bosque del Apache and fall is a great time to visit the refuge and enjoy the spectacular wildlife display.

“The show is on,” says Chris Leeser of the U.S Fish and Wildlife Service. “Now is the perfect time to come and enjoy the fall colors along with all the birds.”

The 57,000 acre wetland refuge provides migrating waterfowl a place to stop, rest and feed during their travels south for the winter. 

Many cranes, geese and ducks stay on at the refuge where food and water is abundant and there’s plenty of open space.

Visitors to the refuge especially in the morning and evening will enjoy watching large groups of birds taking off and landing amid a symphony bird calls.

Other wildlife also live on the refuge and visitors may see coyotes stalking the flocks, turkeys strutting or deer grazing in the fields.

The refuge features a popular 12-mile long auto tour route that wends its way among the marshes, ponds and fields of the refuge.

The refuge also features numerous hiking trails and roadside viewing areas. There is no camping or overnight parking allowed on the refuge. Pets are not allowed outside of vehicles from Oct. 1 through March 31. The refuge is open one hour before sunrise to one hour after sunset. The entrance fee is $5. Visit the refuge’s website at www.fws.gov/refuge/Bosque_del_Apache/ for more information or call them at 575-835-1828.

Those traveling to the refuge may want to save their appetite for when they get there as the nearby town of San Antonio features three of New Mexico’ best green chile cheeseburger joints, the Owl, Buckhorn and Crane cafes.

Next month the refuge will host the 32^nd annual Festival of the Cranes from Nov. 20 through Nov. 23 with more than 130 events scheduled.

The festival some call New Mexico’s balloon fiesta for birdwatchers draws thousands of visitors from all over the world who participate in photography classes, seminars, tours and other activities. Visit the website www.friendsofbosquedelapache.org for more information and registration.

Many visitors come to photograph the cranes known for their artful dancing and posturing while sweeping vistas, deep blue skies and immense cloud formations serve as the backdrop.

The refuge is about 95 miles south of Albuquerque off Interstate 25. While in the area the public is welcome to visit the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish’s 17,000 acre Bernardo Wildlife Area where crops are grown to feed migrating birds. The area features a three-mile auto tour loop and several elevated viewing platforms where visitors can watch birds. 

New Director of state Outdoor Recreation Division to speak at Outdoors Economic Conference

A lone angler fishes on the Rio Costilla in the Valle Vidal of northern New Mexico.

Silver City will host an Outdoor Recreation Economic Conference this weekend where promotion and support of the state’s industry will be the primary topic.

The conference at the Grant County Conference
Center will feature seminars and speakers from numerous outdoor related federal and state agencies, private businesses, advocacy organizations and political leaders.

The conference will include panel discussions about successful community and company programs that promote outdoor recreation opportunities, eco and wildlife tourism, state promotional resources, benefits of trails, sustainable tourism, federal partnerships with land management agencies and equal access to the outdoors.

The public is invited and more information about attending can be found on the website www.outdooreconomicsnm.com.

With over 40 percent of New Mexico’s land in public hands, great weather and friendly people, the state has long been an outdoor recreation mecca.

But the industry as a whole has long suffered from neglect due to its diversity and lack of a trade association.

That is slated to change now that the state has created an office of Outdoor Recreation under the State Economic Development Department.

The office’s new director, Axie Navas, who managed digital media and marketing for Outside magazine in Santa Fe is scheduled to speak at the conference.

Navas said in a recent interview that her first priorities will be to take stock of the industry, get out and meet the players and develop a strategy for helping support and promote them.

The industry is diverse, including hunting, fishing, hiking, boating, camping, sightseeing, bird watching, golfing, skiing, mountain biking, horseback riding, motorized off-roading and other outdoor activities.

Taking inventory of all the state’s businesses, agencies and others involved in the outdoor industry is already underway and plans to provide digital media and other promotion support also are being considered, Navas said.

The state’s outdoor recreational industry brings in about $10 billion in consumer spending each year accounting for an estimated 10 percent of the state’s gross domestic product, according to the recent academic and business studies.

The industry supports close to 100,000 jobs across the state and generates almost $3 billion in payroll while providing more than $600 million in taxes to government coffers.

The fly fishing industry on the San Juan River at Navajo Dam alone produces up to $30 million in business every year while anglers spend about $268 million statewide, according to New Mexico Department of Game and Fish reports.

Other areas of the outdoor industry are more difficult to quantify due to a lack of information and studies. That also could change now that the outdoor industry has an office within state government dedicated to it.

Volunteer on National Public Lands Day

Volunteers will find plenty to do and places to go to help celebrate Public Lands Day in New Mexico this Saturday.

The Continental Divide Trail Coalition is hosting a free cookout at Hopewell Lake in northern New Mexico for volunteers and the public as it celebrates completion of 100 miles of trail through the Carson National Forest.

“This was a huge effort over the last decade involving so many people,” says Amanda Wheelock of the Coalition based in Golden, Colo. “Now its time to celebrate.” 

Volunteers will help do some low impact maintenance on the trial near the lake before settling down to indulge in hotdogs, cake and revelry. The event is scheduled from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 28, 2019. Camping, fishing and hiking are available. Hopewell Lake is off U.S. 64 between Tierra Amarilla and Tres Piedras in the Carson National Forest.

The 3,100 mile trail passes through New Mexico as it follows the Continental Divide between the Mexican and Canadian borders.

Volunteers can visit several other lakes around the region to help out on projects with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Entrance fees also are being waived for the day at all of their sites.

Abiquiu Lake

At Abiquiu Lake they’ll be putting up a new playground, cleaning up the shoreline and creating pollinator gardens. A free night’s camping is being offered to volunteers involved in that project. 

At Cochiti Lake they’ll be planting cottonwood and willow trees along the shoreline near the swim beach and boat ramp to provide more shade and habitat for wildlife.

Volunteers also will be helping clean up the shoreline, campgrounds and roadways at Conchas and Santa Rosa Lakes and enjoying a free lunch for their effort. Visit the Corps Albuquerque District Office website for more details.

The Bureau of Land Management and the state’s National Forests are all hosting various events at different locations, dates and times. Consult their websites to learn more and participate.

And Public Lands Day means the state’s national parks are offering free admission to places such as Bandelier, Carlsbad Caverns, White Sands, Fort Union, Pecos and others. See their website for more information.

And while New Mexico’s state parks don’t have any special events scheduled for National Public Lands Day, a visit to any one of their more than 30 parks would still be a great way to celebrate the occasion. See their website to find a park.

New Mexico has an abundance of public land with over 40 percent of the state owned and enjoyed by the people.