The Valles Caldera Offers Sleigh Rides, Cross Country Sking, Snow Shoeing and More

Sleigh driver Jeff Grider of Bear Creek Adventures and passenger, Rourke McDermott, Landscape Architect for the Valles Caldera National Preserve,  ride atop the a horse drawn sleigh at the preserve in the Jemez Mountains during a recent outing.

A brilliant bed of deep, creamy snow awaits visitors to the Valles Caldera National Preserve this winter where cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and sightseeing is at its best right now.

“You couldn’t ask for better conditions,” says Kimberly DeVall, Recreation Specialist for the preserve. “We’ve got about three feet of snow on the ground and another full moon night coming up.”

The preserve is scheduled to be open to cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and sightseeing under the full moon on Saturday night, Feb. 27, Devall says.

“It’s spectacular seeing your shadow at nine o’clock at night,” DeVall says of the moon-lit 90,000-acre preserve located off State Road 4 between Los Alamos and Jemez Springs.

The last full moon event on Jan. 30 which features campfires and hot beverages and snacks at the visitors’ center drew about 300 outdoor enthusiasts to the preserve.

Weekend and special event visitation so far this winter has passed all of last year’s total for the entire season, says DeVall.

Last year the preserve saw 1,814 visitors during the winter season and earned $12,474 while this year, with several weeks still yet to to go, the preserve has already seen 2,979 visitors and earned $31,699 in revenues.

“We’re really starting to come into our own as a winter recreation destination,” DeVall said of the big jump in visitors.

The preserve boasts 38 miles of winter trails with 29 of those groomed for cross-country skiers, ranging from an easy 1.5-mile loop to a more adventurous 15k circuit, DeVall said.

Those seeking the kind of quiet solitude only a wide expanse of snow-covered pasture and deep forest can provide should head up to the old “ Baca” location for some winter recreating while the snow is still around.

During one recent sunny weekend one could see many cross-country skiers and people on snowshoes dotting the bright white layer of snow covering the massive expanse of pasture formed by the collapsed volcano known as the Valles Caldera.

“We usually do the Sandias (mountains) but decided to try something different this weekend,” said Brain Schwaner, 45, of Albuquerque and an employee at Sandia National Labs. “This is so much easier and more scenic, I’m surprised there aren’t more people here, it’s a great place to learn the sport.”

Schwaner’s skiing partner, Michael West, 51, a cardiologist from Albuquerque, was impressed with the preserves’ stunning beauty and the gorgeous weather that day.

“Just fantastic,” he exclaimed while taking a break from the trail.

From Left to right,  Michael West and Brian Schwaner,  both of Albuquerque cross country ski at the Valles Caldera National Preserve during an early February weekend.

And drifting along upon a cold, clean mountain breeze one could detect the musty aroma of horses, leather and the tinkle of  bells as visitors enjoyed an old fashioned sleigh ride through the  snow covered woods and fields of this awesome public preserve.

“People really enjoy this ride,” said Jeff Grider, 34, of nearby La Cueva, as he quietly coaxed his team of Pinto Draft horses, Moonie and Molly, to pull a gently swaying sleigh along a road cut through the snow.

In the back, about a dozen visitors bundled up in blankets, snapped pictures and chatted excitedly as a tour guide provided details about the preserves’ history, wildlife and other attractions.

Vern Loose, 66, of Albuquerque said after the sleigh ride he was amazed at the preserve’s beauty.

“Being out in this is absolutely spectacular, “ he said. “I just love the combination of the sunshine and the snow.”

The last weekend to take a sleigh ride at the preserve is the weekend of Feb. 20 and 21^st . Check the preserve’s website at www.vallescaldera.gov for available reservations and other information about visiting.

Grider said the preserve remains essentially the same as it did when as a youth he used to visit his uncle who was the ranch caretaker for the Dunigan family of Texas who owned it and later sold it to the public.

The vast herds of elk, the great fishing in the little creeks feeding the East Fork of the Jemez River and the Rio San Antonio and the spiraling flocks of bald eagles can all still be enjoyed by those visiting the preserve during warmer months.

But in the middle of the winter it is the cold, quiet remoteness of the preserve that stirs memories of snowmobile trips to the ranch where his uncle would be working to carve out the road so the Dunigans could come visit.

“He’d spend days on it,” said Grider, who is a firefighter during the summer and does some ranch work himself.

Nowadays visitors to the preserve will still find the road into the preserve covered in snow and flanked by high drifts but it is easily managed in four-wheel-drive and an experienced winter driver can probably handle it in two if they just kept rolling and avoided the soft edges.

Visitors to the preserve will find a new visitors’ center just a couple miles in off the highway where snowshoes are available for rent along with other goodies like lip balm and some snacks and beverages.

Those wishing to cross-country ski need to bring their own gear. The cost of admission is $10 and no pets are allowed.

If You Go:

From Santa Fe head north on US84/285 to Pojoaque and take State Road 502 to White Rock and then follow State Road 4 up through the mountains and upon emerging into a great, open area look for the entrance to the preserve on your right, further down the road, about 65 miles. Make a round trip of it by continuing on State Road 4 through Jemez Springs and Jemez Pueblo to State Road 550 for a quick drive down to Bernalillo and then back up to Santa Fe on I-25.  Great green chile cheeseburgers can be had in a classic New Mexico bar, the Los Ojos, in Jemez Springs.

San Juan Stamp Dies in Legislature

A bill to raise money for habitat improvement projects on New Mexico’s trophy class, trout stream, the San Juan River, stalled during the 30-day legislature session but its sponsor says he’ll continue to work on the measure and may try again next year.

“This was a good healthy start, it showed there was a lot of support for the idea of improving habitat on the river,’ said Rep. Tom Taylor, R-San Juan on the last day of the 30-day session. “But the question is just how do you do that.”

House Bill 51, as introduced, would have created a new habitat stamp for anglers fishing the trophy waters of the San Juan River. It would have added an extra $5 cost to a fishing license for state residents and $10 for out of state residents and was expected to raise up to about $325,00 a year during its ten year life span.

The bill was backed by Governor Bill Richardson and state Game Commission Chairman , Jim McClintic, with support from the San Juan  River Guides Association and New Mexico Trout.

Proponents argued the money was needed to make improvements to fish habitat, angler access and other amenities on the river which contributes $30 to $40 million dollars annually to the state’s economy.

The Governor had sought and obtained $250,000 from the legislature last year for habitat improvements to the river but then froze those funds along with all other capital improvement projects due to the state’s massive budget shortfall.

House Bill 51 opponents such as Trout Unlimited and the San Juan Quality Waters Coalition raised questions regarding the cost to anglers, plans for use of the money, effectiveness of habitat improvements and jurisdictional issues.

Taylor said he will continue to work on the measure during the interim with all interested parties and may seek another way to fund improvements.

“I’m not a big fan of raising fees in the first place,” he said.

This article also appeared in the Santa Fe New Mexican

Annual Hunting and Fishing Show Brings Outdoors Enthusiasts Together

    Mark Chavez, Feb. 2008.

Just when it seems the winter blues may never end the annual hunting and fishing show arrives to boost our outdoor spirits and tide us over till spring.

“I love it,” says chainsaw artist, Mark Chavez, 52 of Albuquerque, who will be performing his craft for the crowds at the state fairgrounds in Albuquerque this Valentine’s Day weekend.  “I’ve met a lot of cool outdoorsmen here and it’s great fun for the family.”

This years’ show kicks off at noon on Friday and runs through Sunday at 5 p.m. and will feature many new exhibits and provide plenty of kicks for the kids, says promoter Bob Gerding of Bob Gerding’s Outdoor Adventures.

“We’re really emphasizing kids’ activities to make it a real family affair,” says Gerding who is in his 12^th year of bringing the outdoors inside.

Kids can learn how to handle a weapon safely and shoot straight at the show’s adult supervised BB gun range inside  Gerding’s Hunting and Fishing Show at the Manuel Lujan Complex on the fairgrounds.

Kids can also pick up the knack of handling a fishing rod at the bait casting pool where children with an eye for the prize can win fishing outfits and other prizes, Gerding says.

Kids under age 12 get into the show for free while adults pay $8 each and parking at the fairgrounds is $4.

Chavez the wood sculptor says he plans on displaying an elaborate wooden bench featuring elk, bear, owl and trout carved into it.

“I’m still working on burning elk hoof prints into the seat,” he said.”It’ll make a nice addition for someone’s lodge or game room.”

In addition to performance artists like Chavez visitors to the show will find an array of interesting exhibits and plenty of seminars.

Aspiring anglers will find a casting pool and expert anglers to teach them the craft of casting with a fly rod or a spin casting rig and those wishing to the learn the art of outdoor cooking will find expert’s armed with cast iron skillets and plenty of recipes.

There’ll be a turkey calling contest, raffles for all sorts of goodies and services and door prizes too, said Gerding.

Show co-sponsor 94 Rock where Gerding can be heard on most Thursday mornings talking fishing with dee jay T.J.Trout, will be giving away guided fishing trips including a Tiger Muskie expedition to Bluewater Lake and a day on the private waters of Brush Ranch on the Pecos River.

Visitors will also find amazing displays of stuffed animals at taxidermy booths and enticing photographs or videos from lodges in thrilling locations like Alaska, Montana, Oklahoma and even Africa.

There’ll be jewelers and knife makers on site selling goods with an outdoor theme for those seeking a special Valentine’s Day gift for their loved ones.

And the hall will be crammed full of the latest models of recreational vehicles including campers, trailers, off road motorcycles and all terrain vehicles, Gerding says.

There’ll be informational booths sets up by outdoor advocacy groups like New Mexico Trout, the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation and Becoming an Outdoor Woman in New Mexico.

The outdoor woman’s organization sponsors a three day series of workshops at the National Rifle Association’s Whittington Center in Raton where women of all ages can learn outdoor skills like map and compass reading, shooting, cooking, fishing and wildlife photography and calling.

There’s even an introduction to camping class for single moms so they can expose their kids to the outdoor life and all it has to offer, says Leilani McGranahan, Coordinator for the organization.

“It’s a sure fire cure for cabin fever,” Gerding says of his show.

Show times are noon to 6 p.m. on Friday, Feb 12^th, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 13^th and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday, Feb 14^th.  Entrance is $8 for adults, free for kids age 12 and under and parking at the fairgrounds is $4.

“If You Go”

Those traveling to the show from Santa Fe can make a day of it on Saturday by taking the train out of Santa Fe to downtown Albuquerque and boarding a bus headed by the fairgrounds.

The weekend rate for the train is $5 for a day pass with trains leaving downtown Santa Fe at 8:10 a.m. and 11:25 a.m. on Saturday, according to the schedule and fares posted at www. nmrailrunner.com. The return train leaves the downtown Albuquerque station at 4:41 p.m. with the last train out at 7:54 p.m.

Any number of Albuquerque city buses run by the sprawling state fairgrounds from the train depot downtown including the Route 66 bus which heads up Central Ave. with a stop at San Pedro where one can walk a short distance to the entrance most convenient to the show.

 A day pass on the bus costs $2 and the Rt. 66 bus runs every 15 minutes, all day until around 9 p.m., well after the last train has left town.  For further information about bus routes and schedules all the city's help line at (505) 768-2000 or visit the Abq Ride website at www.cabq.gov/transit.

Those who wish to drive from Santa Fe can head south on 1-25 and take Central Ave. east to San Pedro and then head north to the entrance. The Fairgrounds in located between Lomas and Central and San Pedro and Louisiana and there are any number of alternative routes one can take through the city.

For a more scenic trip try driving down to Albuquerque on State Road 14 through Madrid and Cedar Crest and then cross under I-40 and head west on the frontage road which eventually turns into old Route 66, now known as Central Ave. Follow into the city and take San Pedro to the entrance for the show where parking is $4.

Legislature Considers San Juan Stamp to Generate Habitat Improvement Funds

A new user fee for anglers who fish the San Juan River’s trophy, trout waters overcame its first hurdle in the Legislature this week with passage of House Bill 51 by the House Consumer and Public Affairs Committee.

Under the proposed law a new habitat stamp would be added to state fishing licenses for those who wish to fish the San Juan River’s quality waters.

 

State residents would be charged an extra $5 a year on top of the usual cost of an annual fishing license while out-of-state anglers who want to the fish the state’s top trout fishery would have to pay an extra $10.

The stamp requirement would expire after ten years under a sunset provision and is estimated to generate between $225,000 to 325,000 a year.

Money generated from the extra stamp charge would be earmarked exclusively for habitat improvement projects on the San Juan River’s quality waters, where some say the fishing quality has declined in recent years.

The stamp idea grew out of stakeholder meetings last year to address issues regarding the fabled, blue ribbon trout stream including complaints about the degradation of fish habitat due to silt and sediment accumulation brought on by federally mandated, lower water releases from the dam at Navajo Lake.

The legislation comes on the heels of the loss of $250,000 in state capital outlay funds appropriated for habitat improvements on the river last year and supporters of the bill say it’s only appropriate for users of the river to now shoulder the burden for the improvements.

“We support it, there’s just no other way in this economic climate,” says Rudy Rios, president of New Mexico Trout. ” It’s a small price to pay for the quality they’re (anglers) getting.”

One priority project on the books that has been waiting on funding is diversion of a wash that drains directly into the top end of the river and is a major contributor of silt and sediment to the river at highly popular Texas Hole.

Other projects under consideration include increasing access and improving fish habitat in other sections of the river to reduce overcrowding and pressure on the more popular areas, says State Game Commission Chairman Jim McClintic.

“We want to make this one of the finest fisheries in the U.S.A.,” McClintic told members of the House Consumer and Public Affairs Committee during their hearing of the bill at the state capitol on Thursday (Jan 28).

Angling on the San Juan River contributes anywhere from $20 million to $40 million to the state’s economy each year, according to the state Department of Game and Fish.

McClintic said in an interview prior to the committee meeting that he saw no other way to raise the funds needed for those improvements that anglers wanted.

“The people who use it should have to pay for it,” he said.

Greg McReynolds of Trout Unlimited complained that the extra charge to anglers would make it harder to raise fees in the future to support other initiatives like native trout restoration. He also argued for a shorter sunset provision of three years and asked that there be more public involvement and a clearer plan of action before proceeding.

“We may support this bill later,” he told the committee.

Larry Johnson of the San Juan River Guides Association and owner of Soaring Eagle Lodge says the stamp idea enjoys broad support among fishing guides, fly shops, and other business owners on the San Juan River at Navajo Dam.

“My clients tell me another $10 isn’t going to kill them especially after all the money they spent to come fish here in the first place,” Johnson says.

About 70 percent of those fishing the river come from out of state, according to state Department of Game and Fish statistics.

The bill enjoys the support of Governor Bill Richardson, according to his spokesperson, Alarie Ray-Garcia, because it provides targeted funding, is paid for by the anglers who fish the river, it allows the Department of Game & Fish to address recent concerns regarding fish habitat, angler access, and siltation and also allows the department to conduct habitat and fishery studies.

House Bill 51, sponsored by House Minority Leader Tom Taylor, R-San Juan, is slated to go next before the House Energy Minerals and Natural Resources Committee.

This article appeared also appeared in the Santa Fe New Mexican .

Cerrillos Hills State's Newest park

The coyotes started howling just as we crested the hill on this warm, sunny afternoon at the new Cerrillos Hills State Park south of Santa Fe.

But it was the panoramic views that captured our attention as the pack yipped and howled in what sounded like the next draw over.

Views that stretched for miles taking in snow capped mountain ranges, flat topped mesas and rolling pinon and juniper studded hills.

Here the ground was warm and dry, the trails clear and well maintained and the silence deafening.

“It’s one of the best things about this place,” says Sarah Wood, manager of the state’s newest park. “We’ve got five miles of good trails, great winter hiking and incredible views.”

Located just outside the historic mining town of Cerrillos, just 25 miles south of Santa Fe off State Rd. 14, management of the park was assumed from Santa Fe County by the State Parks Division of the state Energy, Mineral’s and Natural Resources Department in August.

Many of the state’s 36 state parks administer public lands for other agencies and generate much of their operating funds through user fees.

Much of Cerrillos Hills State Park’s existing trails, interpretive signs, a restroom and other features were already in place due primarily to the volunteer efforts of  the Cerrillos Hill’s Park Coalition along with assistance from the county and has been open to the public since 2003.

Granted some $1.4 million in legislative appropriations in recent years, State Parks acquired a .67 of an acre parcel of land in downtown Cerrillos for $672,000 upon which to construct a community and visitor center, according to Marti Niman, State Park’s spokesperson.

But plans for the community and visitor center have since ground to a halt after Governor Bill Richardson ordered a freeze on all capital outlay projects while he and the state legislature work on a fix for the state’s $650 million budget shortfall.

State Parks was however, able to renovate a house on the land for use as an office which sits just down the street from a historic landmark at the entrance to town, Mary’s Bar.

During a recent visit Wood said she hoped the park would draw more visitors to the old mining town and boost economic development for the rural area.

“We already get quite a few visitors,” she says “But we’re seeing even more mountain bikers, hikers and horseback riders as the word gets out.”

Wood noted that she spends a lot of time now notifying visitors that a $5 day use fee is required to utilize the park. It had been free to use before. A yearly pass can be for $40 at the office or by mail.

The park has recently played host to astronomy events, nature tours and other events to draw visitors and will conduct even more activities in the future, Wood said.

Wood, 47, of Los Alamos, has been with State Parks for eight years. She holds a Masters Degree in Biology from New Mexico State University in Las Cruces and a Bachelors Degree in Biology from the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque.

Wood formerly held the position of Northwest and Northeast Regional Educational Coordinator for State Parks where she oversaw educational and interpretive programs including star parties, wildlife tracking, plant and fauna identification and history programs for school groups and the public.

This is her first posting as a State Park Manager and is excited about the opportunity and possibilities considering the area’s natural and historical attractions and its proximity to a major tourism destination such as Santa Fe.

Less than a half hour away from Santa Fe, the park not only provides visitors with wide open spaces to enjoy but also a glimpse back in time of an era long ago.

Along many of the trails visitors will find numerous sealed mines, most with interpretive signs providing information about the region during its boom town days.

Cerrillos once was a town bustling with hotels, saloons and other businesses to support those who mined the hills during the 1800s for gold, silver, turquoise, zinc and  lead.

But today one finds mostly dusty streets, old boarded up store fronts and plenty of dogs roaming about the once busy town.

However, upon closer inspection visitors to Cerrillos will find some diehard businesses remain including the fun and informative, Casa Grande Petting Zoo and Turquoise Mining Museum, an intriquing What Not Shop and Mary’s Bar, a classic New Mexico drinking establishment.

The town also boasts a wonderful old church, some galleries and plenty of Old West atmosphere, the likes of which drew movie makers to the rural community to make films such as “Young Guns,”one and two.

All worth visiting while taking in the new state park’s great outdoor recreational opportunities which also includes a horseback riding concession, Broken Saddle Riding Co, that’ll take riders into the park and surrounding public lands.

It should be noted that Cerrillos lacks a restaurant but food and drink can be had in the funky little town of Madrid located just three miles down the road from Cerrillos, where one can eat, drink and shop.

This article also appeared in the Santa Fe New Mexican.

If You Go:

Those traveling out to Cerrillos Hills Park can make a roundtrip adventure of it by taking I-25 south to exit 267 located at the top of La Bajada Hill, just past the rest area.

Go under the highway and then head straight for the mountains on Santa Fe County Road (SFCR) 57, also known as Waldo Canyon Road.

This paved road turns to dirt after about a mile and one might see the Roadrunner train along the way. About six miles later one comes upon the old railroad siding of Waldo where the ruins of massive coke furnaces can be seen by the railroad tracks. The stop features the shade of several aging cottonwood trees and ruins of old buildings. Amtrak and freight trains still operate on these tracks, trespassing is prohibited and caution is advised.

The road then cuts through a narrow, twisty gorge and eventually comes out at Cerrillos where one takes a left onto SFCR 59, which leads up past the village cemetery to the Cerrillos Hills State Park kiosk. The office is located in downtown Cerrillos on Main Street.

Upon leaving town, visitors can head back to Santa Fe through Cerrillos on State Road 14 and take SFCR 45, also known as Bonanza Creek Road, just outside of Lone Butte, for a scenic side trip into the foothills and past the Bonanza Creek movie ranch where from the road visitors can sometimes see movie sets. Stay on SFCR 45 to the frontage road at I-25 and follow it north back to State Road 14 and on into Santa Fe.