Area Hot Springs Provide Winter Relief for Weary New Mexicans

By Karl Moffatt
It’s near noon on a delightfully warm and sunny, midwinter’s day and the steaming waters and impressive view at the Spence Hot Spring are soothing one man’s worries away.

“It doesn’t get much better than this,” said Bob of Albuquerque, who had called in sick, grabbed his bike and jumped aboard the train to Bernalillo where he caught the bus to Jemez Springs.

The hot spring is just one of several in the Jemez Springs area where visitors can enjoy a brisk hike in the woods and cap it off with a soothing soak in a natural hot spring.

Bob, who politely declined to provide his last name, said his midweek, mental health day, was made all that much better by the fact that he could use public transportation to get out of town.

“It’s a little known fact that you can take the train out to Bernalillo first thing in the morning and the bus to Jemez Springs is waiting there for you,” he says. “And it’s free with your train ticket.”

Unfortunately the morning train from Santa Fe arrives about 20 minutes too late at the 550 station in Bernalillo for riders to take advantage of the outbound Jemez Springs bus.

But being from Albuquerque Bob was able to take advantage of a great break in the weather and call dibs on the steaming pool located high on a hillside with a great southerly view of the Jemez Valley.

A bridge across the Jemez River provides access to Spence Hot Springs.

Spence Hot Spring is located about seven miles north of Jemez Springs off State Road 4 between mile markers 24 and 25 where the parking lot is currently under renovation along with trail improvements to the spring. 

The spring’s close proximity to the roadway makes it one of the area’s more heavily used but on this Tuesday morning it sees just a few visitors.

Just down the road at the Battleship Rock parking area one can find trail #137 and a two mile hike to McCauley Warm Springs where the clear pools of warm water are bigger and feature tiny minnows that tickle as they nibble at your skin.

These pools see less traffic during the week due to their remote location and can usually be enjoyed with little or no other company. 

Battleship Rocks looms large and beckons hikers to McCauley Warm Springs.

But those who are seeking a real workout in getting to a hot spring should consider hiking in to the San Antonio hot springs located alongside the creek bearing its name.

This hillside hot spring is a cult favorite among winter hikers due to its remoteness, steady supply of good hot water and the fabulous view.

One can follow Forest Road 376 north off State Road 126 to reach it and expect to hike in about 12 miles, round trip. The forest road is closed to vehicles in the winter.

Another hiking route follows San Antonio creek along an old logging road found just across State Road 126 from the San Antonio Campground. This roundtrip hike covers about 10 miles, crosses some private land and ends at the intersection of Forest Road 376 just below the springs.

Others seeking an even shorter route to the San Antonio Hot Springs have dropped down to the river trail through Ice Cave Canyon from Thompson Ridge Estates. This shaves several miles off the hike but is naturally a more difficult and adventurous hike. 

A snake and lizard  are formed by nails hammered into an embedded timber at Soda Dam near Jemez Springs. 

Either way, the trip is usually worth it and may be all that much easier this winter due to a lack of snow fall. 

Consult the Santa Fe National Forest map for more detailed directions to these sites or visit the Jemez Ranger District office on State Road 4 outside of Jemez Springs for more information.

Visitors to these hot springs should pack swimsuits as it is technically illegal to skinny dip in the pools.

Bathers should also be aware that the warm waters may contain bacteria that can cause serious illnesses such as meningitis and should avoid getting water in the nostrils or other body entrances.

Those seeking a hot mineral bath without the hike will find a public bath house within the village as well as the Giggling Springs bath house, both located in downtown Jemez Springs.

And after a full day of soaking visitors may want to drop in to the Los Ojos Bar in downtown Jemez Springs and experience one of the last of a dying breed of real, rustic, New Mexico roadhouses. 

 

If You Go:
From Santa Fe take US 84/285 north to Pojoaque and take State Road 502 to State Road 4 through White Rock and then up the mountain past the Valles Caldera and down to Jemez Springs. For an alternate route home continue on State Road 4 through Jemez Pueblo to San Ysidro and follow U.S. 550 to I-25 at Bernalillo.

Enjoy a beer or two but party responsibly and arrive alive.

Lonely BLM Backcountry Byway Beckon's those Bored by the Highway

By Karl Moffatt
If you’ve ever wondered what was up in those hills to the east of I-25 as you traveled south near Socorro, New Mexico then the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) has a backcountry byway for you to explore.

Twenty-four miles of good, dirt, road that rambles up through those hills featuring interesting rock formations, curiously colorful peaks and plenty of lonely open space, to wander through.

It’s the kind of road and backcountry landscape that few may see if they stick to the pavement during their travels throughout the state.

Which is exactly why the BLM has designated the road as one of five back country byways here in New Mexico that motorists can follow to find distinctive scenery found only off the beaten path.

Looking west towards Socorro.

Those who intend to visit the byway should download a copy of the Quebradas byway’s brochure which includes a map and the highly informative field guide “A Geological Guide to the Quebradas Backcountry Byway”.

The field guide’s chapters and information correspond to numbered stops found along the byway and is a richly detailed document written by Peter Scholle, State Geologist and Executive Director of the state Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources at New Mexico Tech in Socorro.

Both documents can be found on the BLM’s website at www.blm.gov. Just navigate to the New Mexico section, click on Outdoor Recreation, then on Outdoor Activities where you’ll find the back country byways icon which leads to more detailed information about this and the state’s other back country’s byways.

Tombstone topography.

During a recent early winter visit to the Quebradas byway, the road proved to be in good condition and passable to even careful drivers of a passenger car, however, such an attempt when wet would be inadvisable.

Upon venturing up into the barren hills one may experience an uneasy sense of remoteness before the exhilaration of discovery sets in. Having some water, a cell phone and a spare tire on hand should help alleviate any hesitancy to follow this road.

During the trip one might find themselves stopping frequently to check things out, in addition to consulting the field guide.

One particular hillside featured great sheets of loose shale rock cascading down from above and exposed bands of colorful rock strata. This hill begged to be climbed and rewarded those who did with a stunning view back across the valley to the opposing mountains.

Shale rock like that used on patios can be found here.

At another stop one can see rows of rock jutting from the hillside like tombstones while just around the corner, a couple of cows stood by the road, staring incredulously at the passing vehicle.

And over the course of an afternoon of cruising the back country not a single other vehicle was seen.

It was the kind of road that went well with a cold beer and second gear and invoked memories of the days when casual, drinking and driving in much of our rural, remote state was a harmless pastime, not a horrendous crime.

Outdoors New Mexico's original road warrior.

The rambling 24-mile drive starts on the outskirts of Socorro for those southbound on I-25.

Jump off the highway at the first exit by the State Police headquarters, number 152, and then head towards the river and Escondia Lake. Cross the river just past the lake and then head south a little ways on Bosquecito Road to the intersection of County Road A-152 and follow into the hills.

Just follow the signs, if they’re still there.

From this direction the byway ends at US 380 about 11 miles east of San Antonio, gateway to the Bosque Del Apache bird sanctuary and home of some of the best green chile cheeseburgers in the state at the legendary Owl Bar and Café and now famous, Manny’s Buckhorn Tavern.

Cook, Richard Beltran, serves up one of the legendary chile cheese burgers at the Owl Bar and Cafe in San Antonio, New Mexico.

The back country byways are part of a nationwide BLM effort to promote visitation to scenic areas by motor vehicle in part because studies show a vast majority of Americans drive for pleasure.

New Mexico boasts five scenic byways including the Quebradas which means “breaks” in Spanish, the Guadalupe outside of Carlsbad, the Wild Rivers near Taos, the Chain of Craters through Malpais and the Lake Valley byway near Hillsboro.

Hills off US 380 upon emerging from the Quebradas.

For more information about these and other scenic byways check the National Scenic Byways Program website at www.byways.org.

If You Go: From Santa Fe take I-25 south to the Escondia exit, number 152, head east towards the river, past Escondida lake, across the river to Pueblitos, take Bosquecito Rd. south to County Rd. A-152 and follow into the hills. Emerge at US 380 and head west back to I-25.

Annual Hunting and Fishing Show This Weekend - Don't Miss It !

Roger Alink of Wildlife West Nature Park of Edgewood, NM.

By Karl Moffatt
The annual hunting and fishing show is back to blow away those winter blues and this year’s visitors can take a shot at computer-simulated steelhead salmon fishing and check out the latest in super quiet, electric, ATVs.

“It’s a sure fired cure for cabin fever,” says Bob Gerding, 72, who celebrates his 13th year hosting the show that brings guides, outfitters, lodges, retailers and outdoor enthusiasts together at the Manuel Lujan building on the State Fairgrounds in Albuquerque this weekend.

The show kicks off on Friday at noon and will run through Sunday evening with admission $8, free for kids under 12 years old. Parking at the fairgrounds is an additional $4.

Guests will find plenty to do at the show and get to meet many interesting people in the outdoor industry like Roger Alink, 63, of the Wildlife West Nature Park in Edgewood, who likes to engage guests of the show with a raptor on hand.

“They’re a big hit with people,” Alink, a falconer, says of the American Kestrel he typically has on display. “And this is a great place to network and meet all sorts of people interested in wildlife.”

This year Alink will unveil a new addition to his stable of raptors, a big Harris hawk.

Alink is the founder of the nature park in Edgewood where many species of animals native to New Mexico have found a home because they can no longer survive on their own in the wild.

The park is open to the public and has been constructed entirely with youth labor under grants from the New Mexico Youth Conservation Corps, Alink says.

Other features at this year’s hunting and fishing show include informational seminars by many vendors including fly fishing in northern New Mexico by long-time guide and author Van Beacham.

Van Beacham of Solitary Angler guide service of Taos.

There’ll be seminars about fly fishing for bass, white tail deer hunts, African safaris and other subjects.

Among the more than 100 vendors will be one featuring a selection of remote control helicopters and cars with demonstrations that the kids are sure to enjoy, Gerding says.

There’ll be cast iron skillet cooking demonstrations, taxidermists with mounts of bears, mountain lions and other wildlife on display.

Representatives from San Juan River fishing lodges will be on hand to entice anglers with videos, pictures and firsthand accounts of the excellent trout fishing to be found on one of the west’s top ten trout streams.

Visitors will find many of New Mexico’s sporting, wildlife and other special interest groups on hand to educate and inform them about outdoor related issues and how they can get involved.

And through it all there’ll raffles and door prizes given away including a guided fly-fishing trip and taxidermy gift certificates, Gerding says.

Outdoor gear-heads will also find displays of the latest in recreational vehicles, campers and other equipment.

And Bob Turner’s Ford Country in Albuquerque is giving away four free tickets to the show to potential customers who take a test drive in any new or used car on the lot, Gerding says.

If You Go: Take I-25 south to Central Ave. in Albuquerque and head east towards the mountains, turn left at San Pedro and follow to the entrance. Upon returning home take an alternative route by proceeding east on Central Ave. to the frontage road alongside I-40 and follow to State Road 114 and a drive through the scenic towns of Cedar Crest and Madrid to Santa Fe. 

Sandia Lakes Offers Top Notch Winter Angling Amid Spectacular Scenery

By Karl Moffatt
If the dead of winter makes you stir crazy then there may be no better escape than a quick trip to New Mexico’s fanciest fishing hole.

Sandia Lakes’ recently remodeled park located just south of Bernalillo on the State Road 313 features spectacular scenery, excellent accommodations, spacious surroundings and plenty of good fishing.

“They’ve done an excellent job out here, “says Joyce Maldonado, 44, of Albuquerque who recently visited the lakes for the first time at her husband’s urging.”It’s really beautiful, the facilities are wonderful and the restrooms are even heated.”

The scenic Sandia Mountains overlook Sandia lakes.

Anglers itching to get out for the day will find the park within easy reach of Santa Fe and Albuquerque and good winter trout fishing due to a generous stocking program and the lakes high tech underpinnings.

Oxygen diffusers are installed in each of the dredged, deepened and lined ponds to provide fish a quality environment in which to reside.

The park also features a state of the art holding facility where fish can be temporarily stored while awaiting stocking.

Trout are stocked for winter and spring fishing while catfish replace them during the heat of the summer and fall.

The park features three lakes including the recently opened catch and release pond where fishing for trophy trout on the fly can be had under a winter special for just $10 a day.

A lone angler enjoys an afternoon of chasing trout at the catch and release pond at Sandia Lakes.

The use of single, barbless, lures or flies is required on the catch and release pond but tandem flies rigs are permitted. All fish must be netted when caught and kept in the water while unhooked.

A state fishing license is not needed at the angling park owned and operated by Sandia Pueblo. 

During a recent visit on a warm, sunny, winter’s day, the fishing proved productive and fun while the views of the surrounding Bosque and the Sandia Mountains made passing the time between strikes, relaxing and enjoyable.

Snow geese and ducks provided occasional entertainment while the eerie cries of an unseen group of wintering cranes drifted over from a nearby pasture. An Amtrak train added to the atmosphere when it zipped by on the nearby railroad tracks and left the lonely wail of its horn trailing in its wake.

The pavilion and catch and release pond at Sandia Lakes. 

Park Manager, Michael Bridges, 54, of Albuquerque, says the catch and release pond is part of the park’s private, pavilion area which can be rented for graduation parties, family reunions, company picnics and even weddings.

The pavilion features a spacious, covered patio with seating, an attached, fully equipped commercial kitchen, gas fired BBQ grills and a nearby playground and restrooms.

Bridges, who holds a bachelors degree in biology and economics from UNM (University of New Mexico) and a master’s degree in organizational management from the University of Phoenix, has previously worked for outdoor recreational giants such as REI and Sportsman’s Warehouse.

Bridges says he loves his new job working with Sandia Pueblo and with a sweep of his arm noted how the work environment couldn’t be beat either.

Michael Bridges, Manager, Sandia Lakes.

Those seeking to fill their freezer will find two more lakes south of the pavilion area where bait can be used to catch and keep a total of five fish per day at $20, four for seniors who pay $15 and three fish for kids under 12-years-old who are charged $12 for the day.

Joyce Maldonado, 44, of Albuquerque shows off one of many nice fish she caught during a January, 2011 outing  to Sandia Lakes.

These two lakes cover about 18 acres and are surrounded by towering cottonwood trees and a loop walking trail. Visitors pay just $3 to hang out without fishing.

On the interconnected lakes anglers with find amenities such as some 51 sun shelters, convenient parking areas and numerous clean, heated and well equipped restrooms.

One of the clean, heated, and well equipped restrooms at Sandai Lakes.

The lakes also feature several handicapped accessible fishing stations as well as a fully stocked bait and tackle shop that sells gear, beer and snacks by friendly, helpful clerks.

There’s even a fish cleaning station for the customers’ convenience.

Overall the lakes at Sandia Pueblo may very well have set the bar for tribal operated fishing parks with its remodel of this old, favorite, winter fishing hole. See their website at http://www.sandiapueblo.nsn.us/indexlakes.html for more info.

The store at Sandia Lakes is well stocked including bait, tackle, snacks and even beer.

If You Go:

From Santa Fe take I-25 south to the Tramway exit and head west to towards the river and at the traffic circle take State Road 313 back north towards Bernalillo. Sandia lakes will be on the left shortly.
For a more scenic drive home, stay on 313 through the town of Bernalillo, past Santa Ana Pueblo and on to San Felipe Pueblo. Stay on the road as it winds through the pueblo until it meets and intersection just past the playing fields and then head east back to the interstate. The more adventurous can go straight at this intersection and follow the dirt road all the way to Santo Domingo Pueblo (now known as Kewa Pueblo) and then head east back to the interstate.

Fort Selden & Leasburg Dam Make for Warm Winter Get Away to Southern New Mexico

By Karl Moffatt
As the temps begin to dip and the snow gets to flying around northern New Mexico, it’s time to head south to warmer climes where one can visit other state attractions like historic Fort Selden while camping out at nearby Leasburg State Park.

Fort Selden, just outside of Las Cruces on the back road to the chile capital of Hatch, provides visitors a glimpse of the past when black Buffalo soldiers were stationed at the adobe fort and patrolled the surrounding countryside to keep marauding Indians at bay.

The out-of-the-way state monument and museum is at the heart of some very interesting country along the Rio Grande where t-shirt weather is routine during winter months.

Visitors will find displays inside the monument’s small museum depicting life on the frontier during the late 1800s when settlers risked their lives in any number of ways in the harsh, desert environment.

Fort Selden was home to the 125th Colored Infantry Regiment made up of black soldiers who joined the U.S. Army near the end of the Civil War and sent west.

The black soldiers’ fighting skills, tenacity and courage earned the respect of their Indian adversaries who called them “Buffalo Soldiers” in part because of their thick wooly hair, much like a bison’s.

The black soldiers performed so well that nine were awarded the Medal of Honor for their service in the territory of New Mexico.

Old photos, artifacts and other materials displayed within the museum give visitors a good idea what life was like at the remote fort and friendly staff are available to answer questions.

The famous WW II general, Douglas MacArthur, spent a couple of early childhood years at the fort because his father was stationed there. MacArthur would later write of learning to ride and shoot before he could read and write while growing up there.

The museum boasts an impressive weapons display, including large caliber muskets and rifles of the era, a 12-pound cannon and a mountain howitzer. There are also uniforms and other equipment to be seen along with documents and other interesting materials.

A walk through the spacious grounds outside of the museum reveals the remnants of the still-standing adobe walls under the shade of a line of aging cottonwood trees.

A bronze statute statue honoring the Buffalo Soldiers is prominently displayed on the grounds where every second Saturday of the month re-enactors occupy the grounds and demonstrate for visitors the daily life of soldiers then.

From the grounds one can gaze across the Rio Grande riverbed upon the imposing but barren Robledo Mountains where soldiers on Lookout Peak kept an eye out for bandits and ill-intentioned Indians.

Admission to the monument is free for New Mexico residents on Sunday and free to seniors on Wednesdays.

Camping is available at nearby at Leasburg Dam State Park, a quiet, hilltop desert oasis with numerous sites for tent and RV camping. There’s an overlook of the Rio Grande below where hikers can explore the dry, sandy, riverbed as the river’s flow is cut to a trickle during the winter months

A recent remodel of the park includes a new visitor center, restrooms with showers and a playground.

Park guests can easily hike to the nearby fort or take a quick ride over to one of New Mexico’s last remaining roadhouses, the Blue Moon Bar, just across the river on State Road 185.

The bar has a rich history one might discover while downing a cold one and chatting with the locals.

For instance during the early 1980s, local musician Jack Quaintance often performed at the bar and then would amble down to the river on cool summer evenings to serenade the women prisoners being housed at the old, Radium Springs resort near the state park.

The spa still stands as does the historic dam-keepers house at the park and visitors to the area will find much to see and do while soaking up warmth and sunshine found in New Mexico’s vast, southern region.

If You Go:
From Santa Fe take I-25 south to the Fort Selden/Radium Springs/Leasburg Dam State park exit and follow to the facilities. For a more interesting trip with side shows follow old Route 1 which runs parallel to the interstate, getting on at the San Antonio exit just south of Socorro and following through the Bosque Del Apache and past the Santa Fe Diner, a throwback to the truck stops of old. Continue on Rt. 1 past the El Camino Real International Heritage Center, another great little state monument, and on through Nogal Canyon back to the interstate at the Mitchell Point exit.